Climbing Archives – Campfire Chic

From a Beginner: My Favorite Climbing Shoes (Evolv)

Today I want to talk to you about the best (in my opinion) climbing shoes for beginners – specifically, for women looking to start climbing and bouldering.

I bought my first pair of climbing shoes in August of 2011 and bought my second pair for myself for Christmas 2012. I use them both to this day and I wanted to share more information about them both with you.

Why buy climbing shoes?

Climbing shoes are a great first investment when you start climbing at a gym (or outdoors, if your friends have all the necessary equipment) because renting each time you go can get pricey — Let’s say a day pass is $12 and shoe rental is $6…after going a few times and renting shoes, you’re halfway to a pair of the Elektra VTR shoes! After buying your shoes, you will have more money for you day pass (or monthly pass, should you decide to go often).

As somebody who doesn’t wear socks with her climbing shoes, you can imagine why I’m encouraging you to buy your own shoes. Yep, I went there.

I should also mention that climbing in your sneakers isn’t the best option, you’ll want to rent or buy climbing shoes. Climbing shoes have a sticky rubber on them that will help you stick to the wall/rock better and are tight enough on your feet that you will have better contact with whatever it is you are climbing at the time. With climbing shoes, you’ll be able to get a foothold on something you would otherwise not think you could stick to! Think of it as Spider-Man shoes!

Why these Evolv shoes?

The Elektra VTR (in purple above) and EVO (in blue above) shoes are fantastic entry-level and intermediate shoes because they are really well-made and have a fantastic price point…especially the Elektra VTRs. I’ve used both pairs in an indoor gym as well as outdoors on granite.

I love that both shoes have the climbing rubber surrounding most of the shoe…the EVOs have a higher heel, so there is even more climbing rubber back there. Having that sticky rubber all the way around helps keep you connected to the wall, and I feel that other entry-level shoes cut back on the amount of rubber on the shoe to cut down costs. More rubber = happy Kam.

It may just be me, but I prefer to wear shoes with 2-strap closure more than shoes with laces. While there is the rare instance that my straps will get momentarily-snagged on the rope while I belay, I feel more comfortable with straps than I do laces. Laces make me feel I don’t have good control over the tension in my shoe, and I have an irrational fear the laces will get caught on a hold/rock/anchor and I’ll die. Other people prefer laces (the Elektra VTR is available with laces for about the same price as the 2-strap), so try out both types before purchasing your first pair.

I’m not saying that Evolv isn’t for elite athletes, it totally is! Heck, Chris Sharma developed one of the top Evolv shoes – the Shaman (mens and womens). I just wanted to share two great options for beginners that are awesome and at a great price point.

Shoes discussed in this post:

So there you have it!

If you’re in the market for an inexpensive-but-awesome climbing shoe, I hope you consider Evolv!

What was your first pair of climbing shoes?

If you’re looking to buy your first pair,
what are you looking for in climbing shoes?

June 6, 2013 { 2 comments }

Learning How to Build Top Rope Anchors in Joshua Tree National Park

Alex and I spent last weekend learning how to build top rope anchors in Joshua Tree National Park.

And I have the sunburns to prove it.

What this means is: Alex and I hired a guide to take us into the park and show us how to build different types of anchors for top rope climbing (the kind of rock climbing you do where the rope is at a fixed point above you as you climb…like what you see on cruise ships or at your local rock climbing gym) and to climb a bit. We were paired up with another young climber from the LA area, and the three of us had a blast getting to know each other while also learning a million different kinds of knots. Millions.

I think I love climbing and learning to build these anchors because it’s like a giant puzzle…and because it’s kind of like a grown-up version of Legends of the Hidden Temple…mostly the second one. Placing the gear into cracks you would normally overlook to construct a way to hold some ropes that will keep me safe should I fall sounds super scary (and it is!) but it is also a really incredible feeling knowing that you are able to do something with the gear and make good/safe choices!

Not only did we practice making anchors, we learned how to go from the top of wherever we built our anchor to the bottom where the rope hits the ground! I’ve done some rappelling in the past, but this was way cool because we had to move from one rope to another safely…again, a freaking awesome puzzle. I tried to find a video that would explain what we did, but I can’t…I’ll keep looking.

And what’s a weekend away without eating? We stopped at our favorite Joshua Tree restaurant, Crossroads Cafe, after our first day of class (class went from 8 – 4ish on both Saturday and Sunday) where Alex had the Hell Tacos (spicy Seitan tacos) and a cold beer and I had a BLT with an added chicken breast inside with a side of mac n cheese and some juice. Doesn’t food always taste more amazing after you’ve been outside all day?

We also stopped at a new-to-us place across the street from Crossroads Cafe: Natural Sisters Cafe. Both locations offer vegetarian options, but Natural Sisters has more vegan options and even locally-made Kombucha. They have great juices, smoothies, sandwiches and an awesome spinach and cheese breakfast burrito. If you’re looking for vegetarian options while in this area of the desert, we highly suggest these two locations!

I can’t wait to get back out to Joshua Tree to do some more climbing, but it’ll be too hot until later this year. I’m hoping Alex and I can get up to Big Bear to do some climbing and maybe a few other mini-trips so we can get more experience and meet more climbers.

Have you been to Joshua Tree National Park?
When was the last time you took a weekend to dedicate to learning something new?

May 22, 2013 { 8 comments }

In My Climbing Bag

Several days a week, you can find me at the rock climbing gym bright and early (or right after work) ready to boulder and top rope for a few hours with Alex. We share a backpack to hold all of our gear, but I like to make sure I have my few essentials always stocked and easily accessible.

I do want to say that I probably bring a little bit too much with me, but I like to be prepared! Also, I am a beginner, so my items aren’t very high-end and are perfect for new and novice climbers. If you’re thinking that climbing may be for you, here are a few things to keep in mind when you head to the climbing gym:

Bottle of water

Bring room-temperature water in a bottle or get a bottle that won’t ‘sweat’ so your hands stay nice and dry. I sometimes forget to bring my bottle and end up buying one for $1, but that’s just a waste. Water really is just a given. If you plan on working out after (some gyms have workout rooms) consider bringing a drink with some electrolytes in it, like nuun.

Nail clippers

I don’t like to keep my nails at the quick and I always seem to forget to cut my nails before heading to the climbing gym so keeping an extra pair of small nail clippers handy is nice. One of the worst feelings is knowing that I could’ve held onto a hold (a handhold) if my nails were just shorter and then hearing my nails scraping against the hold as I struggle to stay on the wall. Hate that.

Chalk & Chalk bags

While it is entirely possible to climb without chalk, my hands get way too sweaty to go without. Gross, I know. I use my Stonelick chalk bucket to not only house my chalk, but to carry most of my supplies while bouldering and either my Metolius or Mad Rock chalk bag while top roping.

Extra headband

Things get crazy and sometimes only a headband can stay between you and getting your bangs/fringe/flyaways in your eyes. Ain’t nobody got time for unruly hair while climbing. I use the non-slip elastic kind of headbands or some fabric ones I got on clearance from REI once.

Honey Stinger chews and waffles

Climbing takes a lot of energy. I’m either on the wall for a long time when I’m top roping or making big moves while bouldering. Even if I have a good breakfast, I’m going to need some quick energy and my favorite way to get some energy is through Stingers chews and waffles (sorry vegans, these use the power of honey!). The chews are like gumdrops and can be quickly popped into your mouth between attempts and the waffles are essentially energy wafers and I’m obsessed. If you have a sweet tooth, these are going to be your favorite, my favorite is the orange blossom flavor for the stinger chews and the vanilla for the stinger waffle.

Baby wipes

I mentioned sweaty hands earlier (twice, in fact) and how there is quite a bit of chalk involved. Even if you’re going straight home after climbing, I suggest keeping a small pack of baby wipes handy (or a box of them in your car if you’d rather do this outside the gym) for a quick clean up and to get your hands clean. If your hands are cut up, I suggest seeing if the gym has a bathroom for you to use to wash your hands well. I’m usually starving after climbing, so cleaning up a bit before heading out for sushi or sandwiches keeps me from looking too yucky.

Hand salve & Lip balm

I’m obsessed with this. I don’t necessarily get cuts on my hands anymore, but my hands do get a little tender after climbing and I may have some scraped knuckles so a nice hand salve is great to have ‘handy’. I use Climb On! lotion bar and creme, depending on the location of the scratch or hot spot. The Climb On! Lip tube works just as well if you are in a bind and don’t mind your lip balm touching your hands.

What do you keep in your climbing bag?

I’m saving my shoes, harness, and other equipment for another post. If you have questions about any of the items here or if I know about additional items, please let me know. Interested in sharing a post about what is in your adventure bag? Email me!

April 23, 2013 { 8 comments }

Kam Goes to: Joshua Tree National Park

This was our fourth weekend trip to Joshua Tree National Park (you can read about our last trips here and here) and it turned out to be the best trip to the park!

I knew it was going to be a good trip when the Ranger warned us that our camping spot (#15 at Indian Cove, where Picnic boulder is located) was literally surrounded by Boy Scouts. He already had a few other spots picked out for us, assuming we wanted to move (if this ever happens to you, MOVE SITES and thank me in the morning)…our new site was further away from any climbing areas, but much, much quieter.

We rented a second crash pad from Joshua Tree Outfitters, which is located just around the corner from the Joshua Tree National Park Visitor Center. Renting couldn’t be easier, and for $20 for two days, we couldn’t complain.

We were able to work on Pixie boulder near the entrance to Indian Cove Campground, as well as Porkchop and Lonely Boulder 1 (at least, I think that is the name?) in the main part of the park.

Let’s just say that this little lady needs to spend more time in the gym! I need to improve my endurance and finger strength before heading out again. Yes, I was climbing in a cowl…I wasn’t feeling too great and there was a chill in the air, so I thought I could stay cozy in it. I love it, and it is the perfect “campfire chic orange”, don’t you think? You can buy one in your choice of color from SusannahBean Handmade. I accidentally shrank my leggings, so they don’t usually come that low in the back, in case you were planning on getting a pair (information below)

Tips for your trip to Joshua Tree National Park:

There is a flush toilet right after the entrance to the main part of the park (the rest are vault, and wee-folk like me may have a hard time using those)
Eat at Crossroads Cafe around the corner from the Visitors Center and next door to Joshua Tree Outfitters – You won’t be sorry. There are plenty of vegetarian, vegan, and bacon-lover options, which is fantastic. The decor is pretty neat, and the staff is really nice
Stay in Indian Cove Campground – If you want to stay in the north part of the park, we prefer this campground to Black Rock because of the scenery and once it gets dark, the campfires reflect off of the rocks surrounding the campsites to make for quite the sight
Plan your trip around a full moon – You won’t be sorry once the moon rises, it gets so bright and the stars shine so brightly
Bring plenty of water - There isn’t much potable water in the park, so bring a ton of your own…like, double the amount you think you will need. It will be warmer than you think and a lot drier than you’ll probably anticipate

Gear pictured: Evolv climbing shoes (hers), Evolv crash pad, Metolius crash pad (black), prAna Ashley legging, Joshua Tree bouldering book, REI Passage 2 tent plus footprint. Links to Amazon.com are affiliate links.

December 6, 2012 { 1 comment }

Kam goes: Canyoneering in Utah – Birch Hollow Canyon

The biggest reason for our recent long weekend in Zion National Park was the opportunity to go canyonnering. And that’s exactly what we did the entire Friday we were in Utah.

What is canyoneering? Essentially it is decending and exploring slot canyons. The Zion area of Utah has amazing sandstone slot canyons, and we were able to explore one of them on our trip.

For those looking for a less technical recap of our canyoneering adventure:

“Did you pack everything you think we’ll need?”

“Yep, and an extra knife, just in case

I have to cut off my arm, or something.”

Why wouldn’t we make some sort of morbid joke about an upcoming activity involving lowering ourselves deeper and deeper into a canyon that could flood at any instant? Not really, but still, what we were doing was more dangerous than just walking around on the paved paths of Zion National Park. We were excited, kind of nervous, but ultimately, we knew the experience was worth it.

All in all, we were in a slot canyon for about 6 hours and hiking/driving to/from the canyon for maybe two hours. This is something we’d love to do again and hope to eventually become skilled enough to go on our own!

The next time we’re in Utah, we hope to contact Zion Mountain School to do more a ‘skills’ class than an ‘adventure’ outing so we can move toward doing this on our own one day!

Now, if you’re looking for more information about what we actually did, read on!

Alex booked a full-day canyoneering trip outside of Zion National Park with the Zion Mountain School. While these trips are usually a private experience (unlike other outfitters in the area) through a series of flukes, we were matched with another young couple for our adventure. They were a blast and the experience was just that much more fun with them.

An early morning meetup at Zion Mountain School lead us to find out that Alex and I did not dress warm enough for our adventure (prAna Women’s Audrey Pants* to the resuce!), but after a quick change, we were able to get on the road and on our way to Birch Hollow slot canyon.

Birch Hollow is rated 3B IV, which means that you should expect to be out in this canyon for a full day (especially if you continue down The Narrows like many people do), it considered an intermediate canyon, and you should expect water at certain points. There are a total of 10 rappels (the first one being between 80 and 100 feet) and a few downclimbs.

We did the “quick day” version of this canyon trip, it looks like a few people finish the Birch Hollow canyon and then continue down into Zion National Park via The Narrows (which would be turning left as you exit the canyon). We turned right out of the canyon and went to the trailhead where hikers park for a full trip of The Narrows. The Birch Hollow canyon is very narrow and very pretty. If you’re claustrophobic, you may feel a little extra closed in, but you’re so focused on the next rappel that you may not even think about it.

I’ve done a small amount of rappelling prior to this trip, so I was excited to be the first to go down the ropes first. It was great to have several of us taking photos from different angles, and I’m working on figuring out the best way to share some of these photos with the other couple. Some of the skills we learned included how to put the rappel gear together, how to weight the rope to test if we’re safe, how to belay somebody as they come down, and how to belay ourselves if we are the first person to rappel down (my favorite part!).

What is great is that the Zion Mountain School offers many times of canyoneering activities, so it really can be fun for the whole family. We were able to do this canyon because everybody is relatively fit and strong. If you’re concerned about the hiking part (which, honestly, somebody needs to carry me next time!) let your guide know ahead of time. If you’re ever in south Utah and are looking for an adventure (be in canyoneering or climbing) call Zion Mountain School or visit them online and see what they can do for you.

If you’re thinking of going canyoneering for the first time, here are some things to keep in mind:

Hire a guide – I can’t say this enough: Don’t be dumb. Also, while you’re at it…listen to your guide!
There are very few places to visit “the little adventurers room” while in these canyons – Go before heading out.
It’s cold – bring extra layers, including a hat and gloves
Bring extra lunch, you’ll be hungrier than you think! – or somebody may forget their lunch, like our guide. Thankfully, Alex and I packed extra tuna and pita and were able to share. Bring things with lots of calories, you’ll be burning them in no time. Also consider what protein you’re bringing with you, make it worth it!
There’s no drinking water – so bring your own and about 1.5-2L of it.
Stagnant water is gross. I landed in some and it was so stinky! I think my brand new boots survived, I’ll have to do a follow up.